From Obidos to Nazare

On the way from Obidos to Nazare we made a stop to visit the monastery Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça.  This monastery was founded in 1153, and is spread over a huge area of cloisters, residences, and of course a huge church.

To get an idea of the scale of this kitchen, take a look at Ellen way in the back.  I could easily walk under the chimneys.

Nazare is a formerly quiet fishing village now famous for huge surfing waves (some close to 100 feet high).  We enjoyed walking along the waterfront and also up to Sitio, the smaller community above the town where there are views of the surfing beach just north of town.

Nazare's heritage as a fishing village is reflected in the seafood still dried in racks along the beach, and sold by women along the waterfront.

Views down to Nazare from Sitio

The walkway between Nazare and Sitio

Veado

In the surfing museum

North Beach, where the big waves come in.  But not this day.

Obidos

Obidos is an old walled town dating back to Roman times.  The castle was originally built in the 8th century by the Moors and then taken back in the 12th century during the reconquest.  The walled town is small and it's possible to walk almost all of the way around it on top of the wall.  (This is also kind of exciting for those of us with vertigo as it is narrow in spots and there are no railings.)   We spent an entire day walking up and down all the little streets and exploring.

Unusual double-elbow gate

We were not the only tourists in town

Sintra to Obidos

Yesterday we drove from Sintra over the mountains and then north to Obidos.  In the mountainous part of the drive we stopped to explore the Convento dos Capuchos, a small monastery that was founded around 1560 and in active use for about 250 years.  It was set up following the ideals of the Order of St Francis of Assisi: contemplation, introspection, and remove from the pleasures of the outside world.  What's unique about this monastery is the extensive use of cork: ceilings, furnishings, covers on windows and doors, and decorations.  Although most of the monastery is in poor condition and undergoing renovation, the cork features you see are original.

We arrived in Obidos late in the afternoon, and in rain (first we've seen on this trip).  Here's a pic from our room (through a wet window), and a bonus shot of our rental Fiat.

A second day in Sintra

 It's easy to see why this town is a very popular tourist destination.  It's tucked into steep hills and laced with tiny streets, and filled with fascinating palaces, homes and gardens to explore.  Even now in the off-season there are many visitors.

Following a recommendation from our host in the Moon Hill Hostel we walked first to the Biester house, an amazing structure surrounded by beautifully maintained gardens at the edge of the town.  The house was constructed in the late 1800s, occupied by a succession of families over the years, and has only been open to tourists since last April.

Because the house is not that old and has been mostly occupied it's in immaculate condition inside.

The gardens are carefully laid out on the hillside, laced with paths and packed with a tremendous variety of plants from all over the world.

Tomato tree

Tea and snack break in a greenhouse

Next stop was the Regaleira Palace, another elegant former estate turned into a museum.  Although this one is highly touted in the guidebooks, it was a little disappointing.  While the Biester house as filled with clear signage to explain everything, the Regaleira is very light on explanation and context.  The grounds surrounding the Palace are filled with quirky sculptures and features.

There's a 27 meter deep well, surrounded by a spiral staircase, which leads down to a maze of tunnels carved in the rock.

On the way down

Looking back up

Behind the openings in this artificial lake as a large grotto area made up of many tunnels and passageways.

Another grotto features Leda and the swan.